Aggression, Territorial: Introducing Cat to Household
What is territorial aggression?
Territorial aggression may be exhibited toward people
or other animals (usually cats) that approach or reside on the pet's property.
Aggression can occur towards outside cats and also towards cats that live in the
household, especially new cats coming into the territory. This can occur with
the addition of another cat, or when resident cats reach social maturity at 1-2
years of age. Another situation is when one cat is removed from the household
(perhaps for routine surgery or boarding) and aggression is exhibited when the
cat is brought back into the home. This may be an example of either territorial
and/or fear aggression (perhaps the returning cat smells, looks, or acts unfamiliar
in some way).
Territorial aggression can manifest as stalking,
chasing and aggressive encounters which may lead to injury. At times the
aggressor will prevent the victim from having access to certain areas of the
home resulting in a cat that lives on top of furniture or bookshelves or under
beds. This may in part be related to the social relationship (status) of each
cat.
How can territorial aggression be prevented?
Territorial aggression can be prevented or minimized
with early socialization, patient and slow introductions of new cats and
adequate space, litter boxes, and food bowls for cats. However, when a new cat is
introduced (or reintroduced) into a household with existing cats, problems can
best be prevented by slowly introducing the new cat to the environment, by
keeping the new cat in a separate room with food, water and litter box, and
supervising all interactions. If both cats have had adequate socialization with
other cats and are not too timid or fearful, it is
usually only a matter of time before the cats work things out on their own and
are able to share the territory with little or no aggressive displays. However,
in some homes, the aggression between cats persists and a more formal
desensitization and counter-conditioning program may be required.
What is the best way to safely introduce (or
reintroduce) a cat into the household?
In order to ensure that there are no injuries and that
all introductions are positive a desensitization and counter-conditioning
program is the best way to ease a new cat into a household. Begin by confining
the new cat to a room or portion of the home with its own litter, food, and water.
Allow the existing cat to continue to have access to the rest of the home. This
arrangement provides a separate territory within the home for each cat and
allows both cats an opportunity to adapt to the smell and sounds of each other
without the possibility of direct contact or physical confrontation. If the new
cat is housed in a screened-in porch or a room with a glass door, it may also be
possible to allow the cats to see each other through a safe partition. When the
cats show no fear, anxiety, or threat towards each other, then progress to
controlled exposure exercises. Training should occur when the cats can be
occupied in a highly "rewarding" activity such as feeding, playing, or
receiving treats. Provided both cats are far enough apart to minimize the possibility of
aggression, and the reward is sufficiently appealing, the cats will focus on the
rewards rather than each other. In addition, if the rewards are saved
exclusively for these introduction times, the cats will quickly learn to expect
"good things to happen" in the presence of each other. In addition to
ensuring that the cats are at a safe enough distance to minimize fear, both cats
(or at least the one that is likely to be the aggressor) can be confined to an
open wire mesh cage or with a body harness and leash. This will ensure that the cats
can neither escape nor injure each other. It is safest to begin the first few
introductions not only at sufficient distance to reduce fear, but also with one
or both cats in cages or on body harness and leash, so that they can neither
retreat, nor injure the other cat. If the cats have been in cages during the first
training session, they can be placed in each other's cages at the next session
(so that each cat is exposed to the other cat's odor). The cages can be moved
progressively closer, provided the cats show no fear or anxiety and remain
interested in food. Once the cats will eat and accept exposure in either cage
when close together, keep one cat in the cage and the other out during feeding.
The situation is then reversed at the next session. As a final step the distance
between cats can be increased again, with both cats out of their cages. A body
harness and leash can be used to ensure additional safety. Over time the cats
are fed closer together until a point where the cats can eat or take treats in
each other's presence.
Another way to integrate cats is with play therapy.
Some cats are more interested in play, toys or catnip than they are in food. One
of the best toys is a wand type or fishing rod type handle with a stimulating
play toy such as a catnip mouse or feathers on the end for chasing and pouncing.
Begin by having both cats play at a distance from each other. Over time,
introduce the toys between the cats and let them play with the toys together.
What if the aggression between the cats persists?
Introductions must be done slowly. The cats need to be
far enough apart that they are relaxed and will take food or a treat while in
the presence of the other cat. If the cats still will not eat, be certain that
they remain apart and do not give any food until the next feeding session. If
the cats eat at that time repeat the same distance at the next feeding. If
things go well, the next time the dishes can be moved closer together, but only
by a small amount.
This is a slow process; you cannot rush things.
Allowing either cat to interact in an aggressive manner sets the program back.
The cats must remain separated except for times such as feeding when the cats
are distracted, occupied, and engaged in an enjoyable act. In other words, good
things are associated with the presence of the other cat. Another technique,
which may help, is to rub the cats with towels and switch from one cat to the
other to mix their scents.
Despite slow and careful progression, some cats may
continue to display aggression, and it may be necessary to accept that they may
never be compatible housemates. The only way to avoid territorial competition in
these cats may be to find a new home for one of the cats, or to provide separate
living quarters for each cat within the house. If the cats get along at certain
times of the day, they can then be allowed limited exposure and interaction at
these times. A leash and harness, or perhaps an air horn or water pistol, could
be used to safely separate the cats should any aggressive displays emerge. If
the problem is too severe, it may be helpful to medicate one or both cats. The
option of drug therapy should be discussed with your veterinarian.