Aggression-Diagnosing and
Treating
Aggression is the most serious and dangerous behavior
problem that dog owners may need to deal with. Since there are many different
types of aggression, making a diagnosis, determining the prognosis (the chances
of safe and effective correction) and developing an appropriate treatment plan
are usually best handled with a veterinary or applied animal behaviorist. In
some cases medical conditions can contribute to aggression, therefore before a
behavior consultation it is essential that your dog have a complete physical
examination and a set of blood tests to rule out organ dysfunction. In order to
treat the problem effectively, it will first be necessary to determine which
type of aggression your dog displays: dominance-related, fear, possessive,
protective and territorial, parental, play, redirected, pain induced,
pathophysiological or medical and learned. In many cases more than one form of
aggression may be exhibited.
What is dominance aggression and how is it diagnosed?
One of the most common types of aggression seen by
veterinary behaviorists is dominance-related aggression. In order to achieve
security and cohesiveness within a group or pack, a hierarchy develops. Once a
dog develops a position of leadership with a family member (or other dog), any
challenge to that dog’s leadership may lead to aggression. Dogs use facial
expressions and body postures as signals to display dominance, such as standing
tall, a high wagging tail, eye contact, or snarling. Aggression towards family
members in one or more of the following circumstances along with dominant
signaling may indicate dominance aggression:
A.
Protecting
resting areas or resources (food, toys)
B. Restraint, pulling,
pushing, discipline, punishment
C. Staring, eye
contact
D. Handling by the
owner (lifting, petting, hugging, rolling over onto back or side)
E. Overprotection of a
family member
What is fear aggression and how is it diagnosed?
Fear aggression arises when a dog is exposed to people
or other animals that the dog is unfamiliar with or those that have been
previously associated with an unpleasant or fearful experience. Although some
dogs may retreat when fearful, those that are on their own territory and those
that are prevented from retreating because they are cornered or restrained, are
more likely to fight. If the person or animal retreats, acts overly fearful or
the pet is harmed or further frightened in any way (e.g. a fight, punishment),
the fear is likely to be further aggravated. Fear aggression toward family
members might arise out of punishment or some other unpleasant experience
associated with the owners. Many cases of fear aggression are seen as
combinations or complicating factors of other forms of aggression (dominance,
maternal, possessive, etc.). Fearful body postures in conjunction with
aggression are diagnostic of fear aggression. Behavior therapy, perhaps in
combination with drug therapy can be used to treat most cases of fear
aggression.
What is play aggression and how is it diagnosed?
Play aggression is commonly seen in young dogs toward
people or other pets in the family. Overly rambunctious play along with
grabbing, nipping or biting of people or their clothing are some of the common
signs of play aggression. Although it is a normal behavior, it can lead to
injuries and, if handled incorrectly could lead to more serious forms of
aggression as your dog matures.
What is possessive aggression and how is it treated?
Possessive aggression may be directed to humans or
other pets that approach the dog when it is in possession of something that is
highly desirable such as a favorite chew toy, food, or treat. While protecting
possessions may be necessary if an animal is to survive and thrive in the wild,
it is unacceptable when directed toward people or other pets in a household.
What can be confusing for some owners is that it is not always food that brings
out the most protective displays. Novel and highly desirable objects such as a
tissue that has been stolen from a garbage can, a favored toy, human food, or a
piece of rawhide are some of the items that dogs may aggressively protect.
Treatment must first be directed at preventing possible
injury. At first it may be best to confine your dog so that it cannot gain
access to any items that it might pick up and protect. Dogs that protect their
food can be given a less palatable diet, and fed in a separate room away from
family members. Dogs that protect their treats or toys should have them taken
away, and only allowed access to them when alone in the crate or confinement
room. When you are available to supervise, a long leash and head collar can be
kept attached so that your dog can be prevented from wandering off, and
immediately interrupted if it attempts to raid a garbage can or pick up
inappropriate objects. Booby traps (shock mats, Snappy Trainers™, motion
detectors, unpleasant tastes) can also be used to teach your dog to stay away
from selected objects. Although prevention can help to ensure safety, if the
problem is to be corrected your dog will need to be taught to accept approaches
and give up objects on command. The goal is to train the dog that it will
receive a favored treat or reward that is even more appealing than the object in
its possession. The key to success is to have good control and a well trained
dog. If your dog will not sit and stay, come, or allow approach when it has no
object in its possession, then there is little chance of correcting a possessive
problem.
What is territorial aggression and how can it be
treated?
Protective aggression may be exhibited toward people or
other animals that approach the pet’s property (territorial aggression).
Generally people and other animals that are least familiar to the dog, or most
unlike the members of the household are the most likely "targets" of
territorial aggression. While most forms of territorial aggression are likely to
occur on the property, some dogs may protect family members regardless of the
location. Territorial aggression can be prevented or minimized with early
socialization and good control. Young dogs should be taught to sit and receive a
reward as each new person comes to the door. To reduce potential fear and
anxiety toward visitors, you should ensure that a wide variety of visitors come
over to visit the puppy, while the puppy is young and sociable. In time, most
dogs will begin to alert the family by barking when strangers come to the home.
However the dog that has been well socialized and under good control can be
trained to quickly settle down and relax. For dogs exhibiting territorial
aggression, you will need to gain enough control to have your dog sit, stay and
when calmed down, take a reward at the front door. Generally a leash and head
collar will give the fastest and most effective control. Using a desensitization
and counter-conditioning program you can begin retraining with low levels of
stimuli (such as people arriving in a car, walking past the front of the house,
or perhaps even a family member knocking on the door or ringing the bell). The
idea is that each time someone arrives at the house or rings the bell, the dog
will come to expect a favored reward (toy, cheese, hot dog slice or play
session) as soon as it stops barking. Once the dog can be controlled and
receives rewards in this environment, gradually more intense stimuli can be
used. Sometimes, an anti-bark collar, shake can, or air horn, can be used to
disrupt the initial barking, so that the pet can be directed to perform the
appropriate behavior and get its reward.
What is predatory aggression and how can it be
treated?
Predation is the instinctive desire to chase and hunt
prey. Predatory behaviors include stalking, chasing, attacking, and ingestion of
prey animals, but may occasionally be directed at people or other pets. Some
dogs that have never shown chase or predation, may display the behavior when
running together with a group of dogs. Although the desire to chase can be
reduced by using a head collar and desensitizing and counter-conditioning in the
presence of passing stimuli, this is a very dangerous form of aggression which
must be prevented. Whenever the dog is outdoors it should be confined to an
escape proof pen or run, or controlled securely by the owners. A leash and head
collar or a leash and muzzle, can help to ensure safety when out for walks.
What is pain-induced aggression and how can it be
treated?
Pain-induced aggression is usually elicited by some
form of handling or contact that elicits pain or discomfort. However, even if
your dog is not exhibiting pain, certain medical conditions (endocrine
imbalances, organ disease, etc.) may make the pet more irritable and perhaps
more prone to aggression. Fear and anxiety further compound many of these cases.
Once your dog learns that aggression is successful at removing the stimulus,
aggression may recur when similar situations arise in the future, whether or not
the pain is still present. Treatment first requires that the medical or painful
condition is resolved. Next, you will need to identify the types of handling and
situations that have led to aggression in the past. With desensitization and
counterconditioning, your dog can slowly and gradually be accustomed to accept
and enjoy these situations. Once the dog learns that there is no more discomfort
associated with the handling, but that there may be rewards, the problem should
be resolved. A muzzle or leash and head collar, may be the safest way to begin
the retraining.
What is maternal aggression and how can it be treated?
Maternal aggression is directed toward people or other
animals that approach the bitch with her puppies. When bitches go through
pseudopregnancy they may also become aggressive and begin to protect nesting
areas or stuffed toys at the approximate time when the puppies would have been
born. Once the puppies are weaned and the dog is spayed the problem is unlikely
to recur. In the interim, the owners can use a leash or leash and head collar,
along with the come command and rewards to teach the dog to leave the litter, at
which time the puppies can then be handled. With desensitization,
counterconditioning, good control and highly motivating rewards, it may be
possible to train your dog to accept approach and handling of the puppies.
What is redirected aggression and how can it be
treated?
Aggression that is directed toward a person or pet that
did not initially evoke the aggression is classified as redirected. This is
likely to occur when the dog is aroused and a person or other pet intervenes or
approaches. Dogs that are highly aroused must be avoided. In some cases a water
rifle, air horn, or long leash can be used to safely remove the dog from the
situation. If the aggression and arousal does not immediately subside, consider
locking your dog in a dark, quiet room, until it settles down and will come out
for food or play. Since redirected aggression arises out of other forms of
aggression, it is important to identify and treat the initial cause of
aggression (e.g. fear, territorial, sibling rivalry, etc.), or to prevent the
problem. This can be acomplished by avoiding exposure to the stimulus for
aggression or by keeping a leash and head collar or leash and muzzle on your dog
when exposure is possible.
What are some of the other causes of aggression?
Aggression associated with medical disorders may arise
at any age, may have a relatively sudden onset and may not fit any canine
species typical behavior. Some medical conditions can, on their own, cause
aggression, but in many cases a combination of behavioral factors and medical
problems cause the pet to pass a certain threshold at which aggression is
displayed. Infectious agents such as rabies, hormonal imbalances such as
hypothyroidism, psychomotor epilepsy, hyperkinesis, neoplasia, and a variety of
genetic and metabolic disorders can cause or predispose a dog to aggression.
Painful conditions such as dental disease, or arthritis, and medical conditions
causing fever, fatigue or sensory loss might increase the pet’s irritability.
In rare circumstances, aggression has no identifiable
etiology and no particular stimuli that initiate the aggressive displays. There
may be a genetic propensity to aggression in some lines of some breeds, but many
of the cases previously labeled as "idiopathic", "rage" or
"mental lapse aggression" have been disputed and in some cases
subsequently reclassified. Only when there is no identifiable stimulus or cause
for the behavior, or when an abnormal EEG is documented, should the diagnosis of
idiopathic aggression be considered.
What is learned aggression and how can it be treated?
Although learned aggression can refer to dogs that are
intentionally trained to act aggressively on command (or in particular
situations), learning is also an important component of most other types of
aggression. Whenever a dog learns that aggression is successful at removing the
stimulus, the behavior is further reinforced. Some forms of aggression are
inadvertently rewarded by owners who, in an attempt to calm the pet and reduce
aggression, actually encourage the behavior with patting or verbal reassurances.
Pets that are threatened or punished for aggressive displays may become even
more aggressive each time the situation recurs.
Treatment with flooding is intended to teach the pet
that the stimulus is not associated with any harm and that aggression will not
successfully remove the stimulus. With desensitization and counter-conditioning,
the dog is not only taught that the stimulus is safe, but that it is associated
with a reward.